Bottom line is it comes down to a personal decision for all of us. Its a decision that prior  generations didn’t deal with to nearly the same extent.

Personally, I do some of both. I try to do enough local business to maintain those all important relationships. I don’t care so much if it costs a few dollars more to support my local music store. I figure in the hassle and potential cost should I have to return something bought online. Doing so often evens out the price difference.

But the selection thing is an issue for me. For instance, I like oddball strings. Brand names like Pyramid, Thomastik, and LaBella. Configurations such as flatwound, tapewound, and light bottom, heavy top. I can’t find that sort of stuff in Denver let alone Fort Collins! Most of the time the teenager behind the counter doesn’t even know what I’m talking about.

Having local stores special order things for me doesn’t get it most of the time. Why should I pay more when I can order it myself for less? Even more importantly, when I order it myself, I know when it gets ordered. When I rely on a store to do it, who knows how many days later the order actually gets placed?

When it comes to cheap guitars themselves, its pretty much a matter of where I find them. Most of the time we’re talking about a specific cheap guitar rather than one fresh of the factory floor along with a hundred others just like it. Remember, I tend to favor buying used guitars over new ones.

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eBay is a pretty great place to look for cheap guitars. I’ve bought (and sold) all kinds of things on eBay with very good success and only a few disappointments. Of the disappointments, I’d say at least half were my not reading closely enough or ignoring some of my own guidelines.

What are those guidelines? I’m glad you asked that question because I have one of those ever popular bulleted lists for you. Keep in mind that many of my eBay guidelines need not only apply to cheap guitars but almost anything else you might buy on eBay.

So here is my list in no particular order:

* Watch the seller’s rating. A seller with less than 50 transactions without at least some of those being sales and less than 100% satisfaction rating is always suspect. If the seller has sales in the 100s or 1000s even, I relax the satisfaction rating requirement a little. After all, everyone is going to have a dissatisfied customer now and again.

* I only deal with North American buyers and sellers. I swear every time I relax this rule even a little I get into some kind of hassle.

* Watch the shipping charges. Sometimes shipping can be enough to offset most if not all of the savings.

* Make sure savings are significant enough to warrant the risk factor. Is it really worth $50 savings on a $500 purchase? What if you have to return the item? How is that $50 savings looking now?

* Take your time and watch similar items for awhile if at all possible. eBay pricing is dynamic and is being affected (effected?) by the economy just like everything else. I have a bunch of searches I monitor all the time just so I have a “feel” for when something really is a good deal.

* Know what you’re looking for. Its way too easy to get sidetracked. For instance, lately I’ve been looking for a new camera. I know what I want. But in a moment of weakness I almost bought another just because it was a “good deal.”

* Avoid the impulse purchase. Like with any auctions, its easy to get caught up in the heat of the moment and make purchases you later regret.

* Look for items closing at strange times or in the middle of the week. Its normal for items to have a bidding frenzy right before closing. But if they are ending at an unusual time or in the middle of the week, there might be less of a frenzy.

So there’s my personal list of eBay guidelines for myself. Do you have some I missed? If so, write me and let me know!

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If you never had your own guitar before but you decided on purchasing one now, you need to realize you are about to start a major enterprise that can give you a headache at times. Trying to find a first guitar that is right for you can be a very frustrating experience.

First consideration when deciding on which guitar to buy?

Avoid becoming the victim of intimidation. Do not make rush decisions when you are confronted with guitar sales men who use all this overwhelming terminology and talk about frets and buying the right amplifier. You have resources and you should make good use of these resources before you consider making a choice.

Second consideration when deciding on which guitar to buy?

Determine upfront how much you are able and willing to spend for the purchase of a guitar. Keep in mind however that cheap cannot be a synonym for high quality. A major price difference can sometimes also mean that there is a major sound difference.

Electric guitars tend to be more expensive in the long run because of all the accessories that come with it. Keep that in mind if your budget is very limited. Consider buying an acoustic guitar if your budget is very limited. The purchase of chords and also amplifiers can really accelerate your spending and not everyone’s budget is able to carry that expense.

Third consideration when deciding on which guitar to buy?

The internet is a source of valuable information. Use it! Look at all the different models and read about advantages and disadvantages. Be an informed guitar buyer! The acquisition of a guitar is a major decision. Treat it as such. Read about all there is to know and you will be able to make a purchase that will please you more.

Fourth consideration when deciding on which guitar to buy?

Your next move is visiting as many stores that sell guitar in your area as possible. There is no need to rush into any guitar purchase. Do you have an acquaintance who is a good guitarist? Convince him to come along! His advice and expertise will help you tremendously. Talk to salesmen too but keep in mind what their position is when they try to push you into buying right then and there.

Playing a tune on different guitars while in music stores is a major prerequisite for finding the right guitar. Avoid embarrassment to stand in your way and play a favorite tune at the same volume you would choose in another setting than the store. Trying to play at a reduced volume alters the sound and does not give you the right idea about the potential of the
instrument.

The right sound is very important when you try to make a choice. Get to “feel” that instrument without any bias. By trying many guitars you will be able to eliminate some and favor a few others. Go back to your computer to do research on every instrument you favor so far. Read up on what other guitarists have to say about the instruments you favor so far.

You probably have long plans with a new instrument. You want to do all it takes to find the perfect guitar for you. Rush purchases are never good when it comes to guitars. Research is essential!

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How much stock to you put in what guitars your favorite rock star plays? Obviously, guitar manufacturers think you put a whole lot of stock into it because they pay or “sponsor” musicians to use their guitars and do clinics, etc. Exactly the reason you shouldn’t put too much stock in it though. Your idol may not be playing brand X because its his favorite but because he’s payed to do so.

Also realize that a specific guitar is only one link in a long chain of variables your upper echelon star relies on. There are effect pedals, the amplifier, not to mention what the sound engineer or recording engineer might be doing to the sound. So don’t expect to sound the same even if you have the same talent level.

Probably one of the best reasons to pay attention to what your hero plays is because you like the look of his axe on stage. But realize that if this is your motivation, there are probably cheaper “look a like” guitars that you might consider. Many companies now issue knock offs of their star’s guitars. Some, right down to the exact damage of the star owned instrument. Some manufacturers have the stars design instruments for them to make as “special editions” as well.

You know that no name bass I was talking about? Turns out its an Arbor bass used by 80s “hair band” bassist Dana Strum of The Vinnie Vincent Invasion, and Slaughter. Even knowing that, I’d never heard of the bands (Well ok, I’d heard of Slaught. Don’t know their music at all.) nor the guitar brand. Hair bands… probably my least favorite sort of music because of the hype and pretension. I wonder if I should not buy this bass because of that association? On the other hand, it might just be a perfect inside joke.

Go ahead and play your hero’s guitar if it inspires you. There is nothing wrong with it. But if you are just looking for a reliable, playable, cheap guitar, know there might be cheaper ways to go.

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Most people perceive cheap guitar as low quality, poorly manufactured guitar. In fact, some people will be intimidated by the fact that it wasn’t US made guitar. You may never consider Chinese or Korean made guitars and may never buy a cheap guitar, until recently.

Many big guitar manufacturers have already started producing their guitars in Korea, China and India to offer more affordable guitars for the regular guitar player. Not everybody can afford a $2000+ Fender or Gibson guitars and there is a large market for cheap guitars under $400.

Most of the Epiphone cheap guitars models which is own by Gibson now are produced in Korea. Kramer, which is another company owned by Gibson produces most of its cheap guitars in Korea too. Fender bought Jackson a few years ago, and now most of its Jackson guitars are produced in Korea and India. BC Rich low-cost guitars and many Ibanez guitar models are made in Korea too.

The low cost of labor may help to produce cheaper guitar, but that alone cannot be the only reason for lowering guitar prices.

So, why some guitars really dirt cheap and yet some guitars are outrageously expensive?

There are several factors determining a guitar manufacturing price.

The first factor for making a guitar cheap or expensive is the actual guitar manufacturing process. Was the guitar hand-made or was it produced in a highly automated modern guitar factory? Hand-made guitars are usually more expensive, while the guitars coming out from an automated factory are usually cheaper because the highly automated manufacturing process doesn’t require much manual labor such as guitar building, quality control.

Another factor which will determine a guitar price is the quality of material used for producing this guitar. This can include the woods used for the guitar neck and body, the paints and finishes. Cheaper guitars use inexpensive woods like plywood for building the guitar body, while more expensive guitars use quality woods like mahogany, rosewood, alder.

The third factor for making a guitar cheap or expensive is the quality of electronics and hardware that go in the guitar. Cheap guitars usually have cheap bridge, tuners, and stock pickups. Expensive guitars are made with quality hardware and electronics. For example the cost of a single Seymour-Duncan pickup may be much higher than the price for a decent cheap guitar made in Korea.

Cheap Guitars – Does it worth to buy one?

It really depends. Not everyone will use a cheap guitar. If you are professional musician and the guitar is your tool of trade, then you probably won’t want to buy a cheap guitar. Although most cheap guitars nowadays have a very good quality, professional musicians prefer hand-made electric guitars created by professional luthiers.

If you don’t want to spend several thousand dollars on a Gibson Les Paul guitar, then you might have a look at cheaper guitars. Bear in mind that cheap guitars are no longer no-name guitars. You can still buy Ibanez, Jackson, ESP, Epiphone, Fernandes, BC Rich, Squier, and many more famous guitar brands for less than $200!

I bought a cheap guitar made in China by Fernandes for just $150. The guitar has a licensed Floyd Rose tremolo, a very good, easy-playable neck and nice sound. This guitar is able to put “cheap” and “quality” in one sentence. My cheap guitar is worth much more than $150 and it’s actually of a better quality than some US made Fenders I have played.

Would you rather buy the cheapest US made Fender Strat model for $500 or would you rather buy a Japanese made Jackson, with Duncan-designed pickups, Floyd Rose tremolo and super-fast neck for $300? This decision of cheap / expensive guitar is yours.

Electric Affair is an online store that offers many different brand of electric guitars and acoustic electric guitars as well as accessories . Browse the catalog of electric guitars and find the one you are looking for at Electric Affair.

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The unknown bass

An object lesson today based upon a cheap bass guitar I’m looking at. The bass I’m going to be talking about is the exact one pictured. The one in the middle with the “explorer” shape. What is it? I can’t tell you that because I don’t know. I’ve done some research and will probably do a little more but bottom line is I have no idea as to brand, age, anything. That’s the point of why I’m writing this.

When looking for your next cheap guitar, do you stick only to brand names you recognize like Fender, Gibson, Guild, Martin, etc.? If so, the pickings are likely to be slim because brand names like that are generally not available cheaply or if they are, they are totally beat or fakes. (Watch out for that!) A reminder here also, I’m talking primarily about cheap guitars which is different than bargain shopping. That $1,000 Gibson might be a real bargain because its really worth $2,500 but its still anything but cheap for me anyway.

Also, brand name shopping can lead you astray. Most of the major manufacturers now include cheap Asian or Mexican made guitars in their product line. Often times they look exactly like their expensive American counterparts. For instance, the Fender “Squire” lineup. Not that there is anything wrong with these budget guitars. They might be perfectly playable. Often times they have admirable build quality. But the thing is they might also come out of the exact same factory as the unheard of brand guitar hanging right next to it on the dealer’s wall. You might be missing out if you skip over the no name. One “no name” that is somewhat sought after are guitars made by the Japanese designer Matsumoku. I think I’ll have to write a whole blog about him sometime.

I’m thinking the pictured bass might be a Matsumoku designed Japanese bass. It looks to be about the right vintage and its definitely a quality crafted instrument. I just haven’t been able to source the little headstock logo that appears to be an “A” with a guitar shape as its middle. If anyone knows what it is, let me know!

So do I buy the pictured cheap bass even not knowing? Maybe/probably. I like the explorer body shape in terms of playability. The price versus playability factor is through the roof. If I had the money I would. The only thing holding me back is that work has been awefully slow lately. But it doesn’t look like the bass is going anywhere anytime soon. Its been hanging in the pawn shop 10 months now already. I’ll let you know.

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One question everyone looking for a cheap guitar asks themselves at some point is whether they should buy new or used. By and large I think it comes to a personal choice. There are pluses and minuses both ways I suppose. I’ve got to tell you though that I strongly prefer buying used and here are some of the reasons why:

A used guitar should prove more stable over time. By stable I mean the neck not changing, staying in tune, etc. The wood has a chance to age and becomes set wanting to stay in a certain position. (NOTE: For this reason if you buy a used guitar with a badly out of adjustment neck, you should make corrections slowly over time rather than making a huge change at once.)

A used guitar simply sounds better. Even a cheap used guitar. Something about the wood aging changes the tone. You can kind of predict what a new guitar will end up sounding like as a result of the woods used in it, but you’ll still have to wait a period of years for it to sound like its going to sound.

A used guitar will only increase in value. In general a well cared for instrument is a sought after commodity. Case in point: Old 60s Harmony and Silvertone guitars were regarded as crap instruments at the time. My original Silvertone probably got sold in a garage sale or maybe even ended up in the trash as much as it hurts me to say it. Yet  now if you look at eBay or craigslist, you’ll see these old cheap guitars can now often go for premium prices and not just as collector items either! I would love an old Harmony f hole acoustic now and cherish my Harmony Rocket electric as a player, not a museum quality piece. Now a new guitar will of course likely increase as well. But not immediately. You’ll have to weather a dip in its value initially before it begins to increase. (By the way, buying a used guitar during this initial dip period can be a shrewd financial move for obvious reasons.)

I like to think that used instruments in general have a soul. This certainly holds true for used cheap guitars. Every dent, scratch and cigarette burn tells a story. I like a guitar that’s “been there and done that.” Of course a new guitar will eventually have its own story. A new guitar’s story will be personalized to you and you alone. I guess I like the mystery of the used guitar as well.

Now to be sure there are down sides to used cheap guitars. One particularly annoying one is that the electronics tend to be funky, buzzing and crackling and so on. Another is that tuners on old cheap guitars tended to be crap while even today’s cheap guitars have decent tuners. Replacing tuners isn’t that big of a deal but you probably want to leave a used guitar intact in original condition if its that way when you get it.

So there you have my take on used guitars versus new guitars. Like I started out saying, it all comes down to personal preference. The differences aren’t that huge. But for me, give me the used cheap guitar every time.

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This particular segment of Cheap Guitars Blog we’ll be looking at functionally qualifying your prospective cheap guitar purchase. In other words, we’re not going to be looking at qualifying collectible guitars. I am a guitar enthusiast. In the course of that enthusiasm, I collect guitars primarily focusing on interesting, playable instruments. But I’m not a collector in the sense that I look for pristine museum pieces or ones from a certain manufacturer from a certain period. I am concerned about value somewhat, but I’m not necessarily looking for a bargain basement investment that I can later sell for a profit. In fact, often quite the opposite. I kind of get a kick out of the odd ball instruments that I’ve never heard of and maybe no one else would want but that “speak to me.” So we won’t be talking about original hardware, serial numbers, decals, finishes, etc. Not today. Maybe another time I can get someone who knows that stuff enough to talk about it.

I guess the obvious place to start would be a playing test, right? Does the action of the neck seem to your liking? Twiddle all the knobs and switches. Do they all work? Are some of them “dirty”

sounding? Is there a constant hum or one that either starts or stops when you touch the pickups? If they guitar has multiple pickups, what happens to the noise levels as you slowly turn each up and down with the others fully up?

Here is how I think about the noise problems: First, its not likely to be anything too serious. But it can run into a little money having a tech run down the source and possibly if the volume and tone pots are what’s noisy, there is the cost of replacing them. Sometimes matching older pots is an is

sue. Finally, some noise problems just may be inherent within the wiring/pickups of the guitar. Like my Gibson Ripper bass always has some noise to it. No big deal playing live but maybe something that would steer me towards another instrument for recording. Single coil pickups like typically found on Fender Stratocasters, Telecasters, Precision basses, etc. almost always have some noise. Thus the invention of the “humbucking” pickup. Generally I decide if I can live with the noise level before going further in the inspection or negotiations. I might choose to do something towards fixing the situation, but if it never improves, I’ve got a cheap guitar I can have fun with regardless.

Something like my Rivoli with the cocked neck

The neck action takes some experience to really sleuth. The neck could be bowed, or the bridge/saddles could need adjusting. The neck could need shimming, the nut on an acoustic or the saddle might need replacing. Or it could be that some of several of these need fixing. If the neck is severely bowed or worse, you see something of an “S” are probably things to steer away from. Theoretically, you should be able to adjust the truss rod to bring the neck back into adjustment. But what if the truss rod is already fully cranked in one direction? Or sometimes the truss rod is broken altogether. I’d steer clear of a badly bowed neck. Same way, if the saddles are at an extreme setting just to get the guitar playable, I’d look elsewhere. Nut and saddle issues aren’t such a big deal but will cost you either money or time or both.

So at this point we’ve determined that the guitar is playable, but we’re still not out of the woods. Next you need to inspect for physical flaws. First place I look is the joint where neck meets body. (Some guitars don’t have this joint though.) Is it solid? If glued, does the glue look to be intact? Looking down on the guitar as it lays on the floor or table, is the neck at a perfect 90 degree angle to the body? I recently bought an old Rivoli bass from the 60s that had been massively rebuilt. Unfortunately the neck is just slightly cocked and it bugs me enough that I never take the guitar out which is a shame. Someday…

Another thing to look for is a broken headstock. This must be a really fragile or vulnerable point on a guitar which makes sense: Its where there is the least wood probably. Anyway, I’ve seen quite a few guitars with a repair here. I shy away from even a well done repair job. It seems likely to snap again and the loss of integrity here must impact sustain to some extent. NOTE: I’ve also seen head stocks snapped and repaired above the tuners. This sort of re

pair doesn’t bother me as long as it satisfies me visually. After all that isn’t going to impact the playing condition of the guitar.

On an acoustic, its important to look at the body from the side: Is the bridge pulling away from the body? Or maybe has the internal bracing begun to come unglued causing the top to warp up? I’ve got a custom acoustic with extremely fragile bracing that I’ve had to have work done on a condition like this twice now. (The bracing I mean.) Let me tell you, it ain’t cheap. Resetting the bridge isn’t that costly but still might be something to avoid unless you are absolutely in love with that particular guitar.

String condition I wouldn’t worry about too much. I always replace the strings on a guitar and frequently do on basses as well. If the gauge is drastically different from what you’d want to play you might think about how that might impact the neck. One thing that might concern me is if a lot of strings are missing. Every now and then you run into a guitar completely unstrung. I’d be extremely leery of one without strings because you never know how the neck will react to the extreme tension of stringing and tuning.

Intonation is something to check. A simple test is to play each open string and its octave. They should be in pitch with each other or close. If you can’t tell by ear, bring a tuner with you so you can get its verification. If the intonation is off, check that the bridge sad

dles aren’t already at their extreme setting. (When changing strings, particularly gauges of strings, you will need to check and adjust intonation again.)

Finish issues: Older acoustics and some electrics will get little “spider” cracks in the finish. I don’t worry about these at all and consider them “character” marks. Cracks that go through the wood are more problematic but still I don’t worry about them too much if they seem to have been there awhile and the wood has remained stable. Missing knob tops are easily replaced unless you are a stickler about exact replacements for the originals.

OK, I’ve gone way long on this post and there is probably much more I could still say. I didn’t realize this would be such a lengthy topic! I might get into specifics and do some “howto” articles in the future. But for now this at least gives you some of the basics of what to look for when shopping for a cheap guitar.